Domaine Gerovassiliou - 2023 - Domaine Gerovassiliou Malagousia/Assyrtiko - 750 ml.

Robert Parker: 92

The 2018 Malagousia is mostly unoaked (about 20% was fermented in neutral oak for two months). It comes in with 13.5% alcohol, three grams of residual sugar and 6.27 grams of total acidity. This has a fine, crisp feel this year with a fresh finish but also the depth and texture to coat the palate. It handles the modest wood impact easily. Lately, this has been on a roll, making it one of the best examples of the grape in Greece. This year seems to be no different, except that it might be better. Typically, producers of this grape get the aromatics and flavors right—and those are not even the strongest features here—but the rest is uninteresting. The wines aren't always as focused or as concentrated as this intense Malagousia is. There is enough grip on the finish here to allow the fruit to linger. It is sensually textured, and it tastes great in its dry and serious fashion.